Natural Magic

To Dwell in the Center of a Stone
Roger Caillois
with an introduction by Pietro Mercogliano
Photography by François Farges
Artist with a Rock Hammer
Vittorio Sgarbi
Detlef Heikamp
Photography by Massimo Listri

TO DWELL IN THE CENTER OF A STONE

Roger Caillois

Looking at stones is very different from looking at paintings and sculptures; a stone is what it is – there can be no missteps, no gawkish sentimentality or moments of dubious taste; in the presence of a stone, an art critic is rendered powerless, disarmed, stripped of her faculties. So is a historian: while paintings and statues can be pigeonholed into the saga of human history, so wearisome and torturous with its senseless outbursts, mineral formations take us back much further, into time out of mind, beyond measurable spans, back to the flamboyant origin stories of the universe. There are stones that embody uncanny prophecies: they came before humankind and perhaps before the gods themselves, yet they display urban skylines and Pliny the Elder tells us of the agate of King Pyrrhus depicting Apollo surrounded by the nine muses as he plays his lyre. Exhibited at Rome’s Villa Medici, the stones in Roger Caillois’ collection are an invitation to lean back into the past, where we can glimpse the earliest origins and hidden models of a “unified field of beauty” that humans have long striven to emulate.

“So, Anselmo, let’s suppose good fortune had bequeathed you a fine diamond, the talk of the city’s stonecutters, unequalled in quality, purity, and sheen; let us say, moreover, that the talk was accurate, and you knew it, with no shade of suspicion to the contrary. Would you then think it right to place said diamond upon an anvil and hammer it with all your might, to test its acclaimed clarity, purity, and strength? Let’s even say that you did, and that the diamond withstood so foolish a test, would that add an iota to its worth or respect? And what if the diamond broke, as it well might? Wouldn’t you have thereby lost all?”
With this edifying tale, Cervantes offers us profound insight into the nature of both human beings and stones. Mechanically testing stones matters less than clearly perceiving their qualities: their very appearance speaks to us on a basic level, as does the way they let us read them, regardless of their specific physical features. Franco Maria Ricci, who was a geologist before he founded this magazine, may perhaps have guessed (indeed, must have known) that this kind of bond was a crucial link in the chain between the mineral kingdom and the domain of art. Roger Caillois – an “Immortal,” that is to say, a member of the Académie Française – who could read stones like the back of his hand, thought so too. The use of the verb “read” may seem ambiguous here, or at least polysemic: we can read a book, an alphabet (whether known or unknown), a text message, a tarot deck, the future, both omens and portents, another person’s expressions or intentions, the results of a lab test, a diary, or even the human soul. Roger Caillois could read stones in all these ways, at the very least, and most likely in others still. He also collected them.
Part of his collection was donated by Van Cleef & Arpels to the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle in Paris. A number of these wonderful objects are currently included in an exhibition at the Villa Medici in Rome; Franco Maria Ricci Editore is devoting a new book to them, and the following article is an extract from it.


Pietro Mercogliano
translation by Laurel Saint Pierre, Antony Shugaar
Pietro Mercogliano is FMR’s editorial coordinator. He curated the exhibitions Crossed Destinies: Italo Calvino and Franco Maria Ricci (Masone Labyrinth, Fontanellato, fall-winter 2023) and Franco Maria Ricci: Opus in Black (Palazzo Ducale, Genoa, spring-summer 2024).
Just as people have always sought after precious stones, so they have always prized curious ones, those that catch the attention through some anomaly of form, some suggestive oddity of color or pattern. This fascination almost always derives from a surprising resemblance that is at once improbable and natural. Stones possess a kind of gravitas, something ultimate and unchanging, something that will never perish or else has already done so. They attract through an intrinsic, infallible, immediate beauty, answerable to no one, necessarily perfect yet excluding the idea of perfection in order to exclude approximation, error, and excess. This spontaneous beauty thus precedes and goes beyond the actual notion of beauty, of which it is at once the promise and the foundation. For a stone represents an obvious achievement, yet one arrived at without invention, skill, industry, or anything else that would make it a work in the human sense of the word, much less a work of art. The work comes later, as does art; but the far-off roots and hidden models of both lie in the obscure yet irresistible suggestions in nature.

These consist of subtle and ambiguous signals reminding us, through all sorts of filters and obstacles, that there must be a preexisting general beauty vaster than that: perceived by human intuition – a beauty in which humans delight and which in their turn they are proud to create. Stones – and not only them but also roots, shells, wings, and every other cipher and construction in nature – help to give us an idea of the proportions and laws of that general beauty about which we can only conjecture and in comparison with which human beauty must be merely one recipe among others, just as Euclid’s theorems are but one set out of the many possible in a total geometry.

In stones the beauty common to all the kingdoms of nature seems vague, even diffuse, to humans, beings themselves lacking in density, the last comers into the world, intelligent, active, ambitious, driven by an enormous presumption. They do not suspect that their most subtle researches are but an exemplification within a given field of criteria that are ineluctable, though capable of endless variation. Nonetheless, even though they neglect, scorn, or ignore the general or fundamental beauty which has emanated since the very beginning from the architecture of the universe and from which all other beauties derive, they still cannot help being affected by something basic and indestructible in the mineral kingdom: something we might describe as lapidary that fills them with wonder and desire.

This almost menacing perfection – for it rests on the absence of life, the visible stillness of death – appears in stones so variously that one might list all the endeavors and styles of human art and not find one without its parallel in mineral nature. There is nothing surprising about this: the crude attempts of those lost creatures, humans, could not cover more than a tiny part of the aesthetics of the universe. No matter what image an artist invents, no matter how distorted, arbitrary, absurd, simple, elaborate, or tortured they have made it or how far in appearance from anything known or probable, who can be sure that somewhere in the world’s vast store there is not that image’s likeness, its kin or partial parallel?
Even setting such similarities aside, human beings are attracted and amazed by many mineral formations: spiny tufts of quartz; the dark caves of amethyst geodes; shiny slabs of variscite or rhodochrosite agate; fluorine crystals; the golden, many-sided masses of pyrites; the simple, almost unsolicited curve of jasper, malachite, or lapis lazuli; any stone brightly colored or pleasingly marked.

Connoisseurs, in such cases, admire the qualities of a material that is constant and unchanging: purity, brilliance, color, structural rigor – properties inherent in each kind and present in every example. Their values are intrinsic, without external reference. The price a purchaser pays for them depends on weight, rarity, the amount of work involved, just as with a length of satin or brocade, a bar of refined metal, or a gem. Like such commodities, these stones are exchangeable, since there is no difference between one of them and another example of the same kind, size, and quality.

The whole picture changes when singularity is what is sought after. The stone’s inherent qualities and special geometry are no longer of primary concern, perfection no more the sole or even the main criterion. This new beauty depends much more on curious alterations brought about in the stone itself by means of metallic or other deposits, or on changes in its shape due to erosion or serendipitous breakage. Some pattern or peculiar configuration appears in which the imaginative observer descries an unexpected, in this context an astonishing and almost shocking copy of an alien reality.
Such semblances emerge from their long concealment when certain stones are split open and polished, presenting the willing mind with immortal small-scale models of living beings and inanimate things. Admittedly such marvels are the result of mere chance, such resemblances only approximate and dubious, occasionally farfetched or even arbitrary. But once perceived they soon become tyrannical and deliver more than they promised. The observer is always finding fresh details to round out the supposed analogy. Such images miniaturize, for their benefit alone, every object in the world, providing them with stable duplicates which they may hold in the palm of their hand, carry about from place to place, or put in a glass case.
Moreover, such a duplicate is not a copy; it is not born of an artist’s talent or a forger’s skill. It has been there always: we only had to find our way into its presence. Ordinary rocks as well as various types of mineral specimens make up this prey of Pan. In China, poets and painters would see in a clef stone a mountain with its peaks and waterfalls, its caves and paths and chasms. Collectors ruined themselves to possess crystals in whose translucent depths they discerned mosses, grasses, and boughs laden with flowers or fruit. An agate may shadow forth a tree, several trees, groves, a forest, a whole landscape. A piece of marble can suggest a river flowing among hills; the clouds and lightning flashes of a storm, thunderbolts and the grandiose plumes of frost; a hero fighting a dragon; or a great sea full of fleeing galleys, like the scene a Roman saw reflected in the eyes of an Eastern queen already planning to betray him.

One kind frequently depicts a burning town, with its towers and steeples and campaniles crashing down. On the agate of Pyrrhus antiquity made out Apollo with his lyre, surrounded by the muses, each with her special attributes. In the seventeenth century Gaffarel, Richelieu’s librarian and the king’s chaplain, devoted a whole weighty volume to gamahés, healing talismans made of stones inscribed with natural astrological hieroglyphs. Princes and bankers of the same period collected unusual specimens sought out for them at great expense by the numerous agents of specialist merchants. Learned men, among them Aldrovandi and Kircher, divided up these marvels into families and types according to the images they managed to distinguish in them: Moors, bishops, lobsters, streams, faces, plants, dogs, fishes, tortoises, dragons, death’s heads, crucifixes – everything a mind bent on identification could fancy. The fact is that there is no creature or thing, no monster or monument, no happening or sight in nature, history, fable, or dream whose image the predisposed eye cannot read in the markings, patterns, and outlines found in stones. The more unusual, definite, and undeniable the image, the more the stone is prized. Stones that offer rare and remarkable likenesses are regarded as wonders, almost miracles. They should not exist, and yet they do, at once impossible and inescapable. At the same time, they are treasures, the result of thousands upon thousands of chances, the winning number in an infinite lottery. They owe nothing to patience, industry, or merit. They have no market rate or price. Their value is not commercial and cannot be calculated in any currency; it laughs both at the gold standard and at purchasing power. It is not convertible into labor or goods. It depends solely on the covetousness, pride, and competitiveness generated by the desire to possess or the pleasure of possessing them. Each stone, as unique and irreplaceable as a work of genius, is a valuable at once pointless and priceless, with which the laws of economics have nothing to do.

That being the case, they are frequently regarded as amulets and talismans. The owner of such a wonder, brought into being, discovered, and delivered into their hands through an inconceivable concatenation of chances, easily comes to believe that it could have come to them only through some special intervention of fate. They grow passionately attached to it, think of it as a guarantee of health and success. But we are not concerned here with the magical virtues superstition attributes to stones inscribed with images, nor even with the joyful gloating of their owners.
In some Eastern traditions insight may be obtained from the strange shape or pattern in a gnarled root, a rock, a veined or perforated stone. Such objects may resemble a mountain, a chasm, a cave. They reduce space, they condense time. They are the object of prolonged reverie, meditation, and self-hypnosis, a path to ecstasy and a means of communication with the Real World.
The sages contemplate them, venture into them, and are lost. Legend has it that they never return to the world of humankind: they have entered the realm of the Immortals, and become Immortal themselves.
I leave such fabulous emotions to their fate, concerning myself only with the present-day competition between the products of nature and the works of painters and sculptors, whether nature’s offerings appear to represent something or are pure sign. Artists have added to them or merely signed and framed them as they were, thus putting them in the same category as pictures. So they must have fund some correspondence or element in common between their own creations and these works executed by no one.

The juxtaposition should be revealing. At the very least it brings out some strange reversals. We have seen modern painters first give up trying to reproduce their models exactly, then abandon models altogether and eschew any kind of representation. And those markings on stones are considered most interesting which do not represent anything. Yet at the same time those rarer stones that do seem to depict something are coming back into favor. It is strange to think that nature, which can neither draw nor paint any likeness, sometimes creates the illusion of having done so, while art, which has always been successful at resemblances, renounces its traditional, almost inevitable and “natural” vocation and turns to the creation of such forms as nature itself abounds in – mute, unpremeditated, and without a model.
This inversion in the order of things seem simultaneously to reveal and to conceal a problem. To clarify the data of the problem, though I do not promise to find its solution, I shall try to define the ways in which nature sometimes gives us the impression of representing something. I should also like to explain the strange attraction of these manifestly illusory likenesses.

The vision the eye records is always impoverished and uncertain. Imagination fills it out with the treasures of memory and knowledge, with all that is put at its disposal by experience, culture, and history, not to mention what the imagination itself may if necessary invent or dream. So the imagination is never at a loss when it comes to making something rich and compelling out of a subject that might almost seem an absence of all life and significance.
The image which results from the combination of those shimmering colors […] induces in the beholder the same surprise as that produced by a sea louse, a water scorpion, an anteater, or any other creature left behind at some crossroads of evolution, almost a warning.

One day some bold being invents – or has invented in him – a form which may be valid at the time but which is soon set aside in favor of a simpler and more elegant solution. The brave discovery survives through inexplicable negligence on the part of those stern powers that usually eliminate the fantasies of a moment, even though that moment may last thousands of years. Such forms endure only to bear witness to life’s mistakes, to remind nature of its monsters, its botched jobs, its blind alleys.
The strange markings in an agate lead me suddenly into wild extrapolations, seeking, in the obscure workings taking place within a stone at the dawn of time, traces of similar abandonments. By their very strangeness the failures they perpetuate become for me so many speaking portents, or at least emblems. They somehow announce the coming, in the distant future, of a species that makes mistakes, a being in whom freedom and imagination, together with their necessary disappointments, will be more important than successes due to infallible and inevitable mechanics. They presage new powers, imperfect but creative.

Such aberrations exert a special fascination on humankind. They seem to be manifestations par excellence of what I have ventured to call natural fantasy. Perhaps their undeniable, unfailing, and yet mysterious attraction lies in the fact that, through some dim reversal, they assert the right a doomed nature has won to the gratitude of its latest, grudging heir.
Humankind has unknowingly inherited a capital made up of immemorial audacities, unsuccessful risks, and ruinous wagers, an endeavor which, though it long persisted in vain, was one day to foster in us a new, rebellious grace, combining hesitation, calculation, choice, patience, tenacity, and challenge. I can conceive of some divinity, some total intelligence that is panoramic in the widest sense of the word, capable of contemplating in one purview this infinity of vicissitudes and their inextricably complex interactions. Such hypothetical cosmic consciousness would not be surprised at the existence of a lasting and inalienable collusion between this series of fertile false starts and their ultimate beneficiary. It would seem to it inevitable that a secret affinity should allow the heir to recognize, among the daunting mass of nature’s ventures, those which, though they did not succeed, opened up, through their very failure, a glorious way ahead.

Life appears: a complex dampness, destined to an intricate future and charged with secret virtues, capable of challenge and creation. A kind of precarious slime, of surface mildew, in which a ferment is already working. A turbulent, spasmodic sap, a presage and expectation of a new way of being, breaking with mineral perpetuity and boldly exchanging it for the doubtful privilege of being able to tremble, decay, and multiply.
Obscure distillations generate juices, salivas, yeasts. Like mists or dews, brief yet patient jellies come forth momentarily and with difficulty from a substance lately imperturbable: they are evanescent pharmacies, doomed victims of the elements, about to melt or dry up, leaving behind only a savor or a stain.
It is the birth of all flesh irrigated by a liquid, like the white salve that swells the mistletoe berry; like the semisolid in the chrysalis, halfway between larva and insect, a blurred gelatin which can only quiver until there awakens in it a wish for a definite form and an individual function. Soon after comes the first domestication of minerals, the few ounces of limestone or silica needed by an undecided and threatened substance in order to build itself protection or support: on the outside, shells and carapaces, and on the inside, vertebrae that are immediately articulated, adapted, and finished down to the last detail. The minerals have changed their employ, been drawn from their torpor, been adapted to and secreted by life, and so afflicted with the curse of growth – only for a brief spell, it is true. The unstable gift of sentience is always moving from place to place. An obstinate alchemy, making use of immutable models, untiringly prepares for an ever-new flesh, another refuge or support. Every abandoned shelter, every porous structure combines to form, through the centuries and the centuries of centuries, a slow rain of sterile seeds. They settle down, one stratum upon another, into a mud composed almost entirely of themselves, a mud that hardens and becomes stone again. They are restored to the immutability they once renounced. Now, even though their shape may still occasionally be recognized in the cement where they are embedded, that shape is no more than a cipher, a sign denoting the transient passage of a species.

Unceasingly, the microscopic roses of diatoms, the minute lattices of radiolaria, the ringed cups of corals like tiny bony disks with countless thin spikes resembling circles of converging swords, the parallel channels of palms, the stars of sea urchins – all sow seeds in the depths of the rock: the seeds of symbols for a heraldry before the age of blazons.
Meanwhile, the tree of life goes on putting out branches. A multitude of new inscriptions is added to the writing in stones. Images of fishes swim among dendrites of manganese as though among clumps of moss. A sea lily sways on its stem in the heart of a piece of slate. A phantom shrimp can no longer feel the air with its broken antennae. The scrolls and laces of ferns are imprinted in coal. Ammonites of all sizes, from a lentil to a millwheel, flaunt their cosmic spirals everywhere. A fossil trunk, turned jasper and opal like a frozen fire, clothes itself in scarlet, purple, and violet. Dinosaurs’ bones change their petit-point tapestries into ivory, gleaming pink or blue like sugared almonds.

Every space is filled, every interstice occupied. Even metal has insinuated itself into the cells and channels from which life has long since disappeared. Compact and insensible matter has replaced the other kind in its last refuge, taking over its exact shapes, running in its finest channels, so that the first image is set down forever in the great album of the ages. The writer has disappeared, but each flourish – evidence of a different miracle – remains, an immortal signature.


Roger Caillois
translation by Laurel Saint Pierre, Antony Shugaar
Roger Caillois (1913-1978) was a writer, sociologist, anthropologist, and French literary critic. He was a member of the Académie Française, holding the chair that had belonged to Jérôme Carcopino and which would later belong to Marguerite Yourcenar. He founded the College of Sociology and was an anthropological analyst of rituals and beliefs, as well as a passionate student of mineralogy and gemology. Included in this issue are extracts from his brilliant book The Writing of Stones, in which he wrote about his own extensive collection.  


All of the stones in the Caillois collection featured in this article are now at the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle in Paris.
NOTES TO THE IMAGE
In the following image, left to right, top to bottom:

“Larva” (chalcedony)
Probably from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil.
Seminodular, sawn and polished, 9.5 x 10 cm
Gift of École Van Cleef & Arpels des Arts Joailliers, 2017

Agate with curvilinear diamond shape
From Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Thin cross-section, sawn and polished, 11 x 16 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

“Royal Calligraphy” (onyx)
Probably from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Block with polished surface, 14 x 10 cm
Gift of École Van Cleef & Arpels des Arts Joailliers, 2017

Septarian
From Otzenhausen, Saarland, Germany
Seminodular, sawn and polished, 9.6 x 9 cm
Gift of École Van Cleef & Arpels des Arts Joailliers, 2017

“Ghost” (agate)
From Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Thin cross-section, sawn and polished, 19 x 23 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

Wounded Agate
Probably from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Thick segment, sawn and polished, 30 x 34 cm
Caillois Donation, 1988

Polyhedric agate
From Garguelo Farm, Paraíba, Brazil
Thin cross-section, sawn and polished, 11.7 x 14.4 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

Agate
Probably from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Thin cross-section, sawn and polished, 15 x 16 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

“La Vetta” (Paesina agate)
Probably from Chihuahua, Mexico
Nodule, sawn and polished, 9 x 9.5 cm
Gift of École Van Cleef & Arpels des Arts Joailliers, 2017

“Monster” (quartz and chalcedony)
From an unknown location, U.S.
Nodule, sawn in half and polished, 12.6 x 11.2 cm
Gift of École Van Cleef & Arpels des Arts Joailliers, 2017

“Skeletal Monster” (septarian) Lithophysical rock of volcanic origin (?)
Probably from Black Rock Desert, Nevada
Seminodular, sawn and polished, 12 x 11 cm
Gift of École Van Cleef & Arpels des Arts Joailliers, 2017

“Calligraphy” (onyx)
Probably from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Thin cross-section, sawn and polished, 14 x 12 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

Variscite
From Little Green Monster Mine, Fairfield, Utah
Seminodular, sawn and polished with carnallite (yellow) and cardite (white), 17 x 19 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

Quartz variety rock crystal with onyx “eyes”
From Artigas, Uruguay
Slab, sawn and polished, 23 x 25 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

“Oakstone” (baryte)
From Arbor Low, Derbyshire, England
Thick concretion, polished on one side, 23 x 29 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

“Hatching Bird” (chalcedony)
Agate, on flint
Probably from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Very thick cross-section, 15 x 23 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

“Mask” (liddicoatite), turmaline family
From Madagascar
Thick cross-section, polished, 24 x 27 cm
Caillois Donation, 1984-1985

Chalcedony
From Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Seminodular, sawn and polished, 9.2 x 9.5 cm
Gift of École Van Cleef & Arpels des Arts Joailliers, 2017  

ARTIST WITH A ROCK HAMMER

Vittorio Sgarbi, Detlef Heikamp

Not far from Florence, along the riverbanks where Boccaccio’s character Calandrino, went in search of a stone he gullibly believed would make him invisible, “a stone of exceeding great virtue, for that who so hath it about him is not seen of any other person” (Decameron, VIII, 3), Giovanni Pratesi of Figline Valdarno knelt down one fine day to gather rocks and hammer them open. Their insides enchanted him, like the pulp of a magical fruit. Those stones – sliced thinly and highly polished – now constitute a stunning collection. For centuries Tuscany was known for its virtual monopoly on paesina stones, also known as landscape stones or ruin marble for their spectacular visual aspect. To that lapidary glory, Giovanni Pratesi has added the hidden, secret beauty of the stones he had gathered along the banks of the Arno. We are wrong to think that the Renaissance was the first flourishing of beauty in Florence – it’s resided there for millions of years.

No one is nobler than those who love stones. Many sensitive souls find it easy to appreciate literature, admire paintings, or listen to and perform enchanting music. But those who love stones find the earth’s spirit hidden within them. In fifteenth- and sixteenth-century Venetian palazzos, disks of dark red and green stone were framed by larger structures in Istrian stone. These slices of porphyry and serpentine – circles, squares, or sections of columns – were given new lives in various structures as part of an ongoing transhumance, from Rome, Constantinople, Aquileia, Quarto d’Altino, and perhaps even Ephesus and Corfu. Stones travel, from one building or city to another. Stones are reborn; they never age or die. The history of humanity proceeds alongside them. Ancient Rome resurfaced in the Renaissance: stones that had been carved, transformed, reshaped, and reused told tales of long-ago eras and distant lands. People die, stones remain. So they have been consecrated, in a diverse array of civilizations. The Roman Catholic church can be traced back to St. Peter, whose name means “rock,” and throughout Europe its altars hold shards of stones from Rome, the birthplace and center of Christendom. Hence, no stone can be more precious or sacred than one found in Rome or brought from there. But stones possess an arcane story and meaning in every civilization, land, and river.

Stones have accompanied humankind from its earliest origins to the present day. Stones protect those who gather and preserve them; they ward off evil forces and attract happiness and success. Each stone produces a different effect: they guard against catastrophes, safeguard health, block the effects of poisons, and bring pilgrims and seafarers home safe and sound. Even the commonest stone is invaluable. Myths, rituals, and legends tell us that stones determine our fate as individuals; scientific research supports this. If stones are to have a beneficent influence, however, they must be chosen wisely and shrewdly. How to select the right stones is the province of those who are learned, well-read, and highly skilled. In ancient times, those who owned rare and precious stones were considered truly wealthy. If judiciously selected, stones can bring their owners good fortune. Noted among modern scholars, Raniero Gnoli has collected and studied precious and semiprecious stones of ancient Rome, from both the East and the West, and classified them in his renowned book, Marmora romana. I thought everything that could be done had been done. Imagine my astonishment when I chanced to visit Figline Valdarno and beheld, in the beloved old Oratory of Serristori Hospital, a grand and abundant collection of the rarest stones, of varied shapes and forms, neatly arrayed in unpretentious vitrines. Those stones displayed unpredictable designs and wild frills and furbelows. They were beautifully lit and endlessly diverse: in some instances, they were mirror images of each other.

Was this a latter-day Marmora romana? In a way, yes. Only this time the treasures came not from Rome but from just around the corner: from the gravel riverbed of the Arno where it flows through Figline. In a succession of patient, methodical outings on lazy weekends, Giovanni Pratesi would venture out in comfortable country garb, carefree and lost in thought, to collect stones of various sizes and shapes. As he went, he would guess at the mysterious designs they held deep within, working from their colors and configurations. But to truly know them, it was necessary to cut them open, slice them into sections, hew them apart. And so the patient rock collector would return home every Sunday with a sack of stones, shrewdly sorted, each concealing an unpredictable mystery of beauty. He had only to reveal them. And so, in a rough and ready workshop, the stones were sliced into thin strips of just the right shape and size to be placed on display in specially designed shelves, in a euphoria of constantly shifting and changeable forms.

Displayed in an orderly fashion, the cross-sectioned stones reveal astonishing designs in a panoply of shapes that inspire both awe and admiration. Is this a collection or an invention? Pratesi’s project is not that of a collector who seeks to find what exists or tracks down what had seemed lost; it is the work of an artist who gives new form to nature, altering its initial appearance. Pratesi transforms stones, turning them into something other than what they once were. He proceeds like a conceptual artist: not reworking, but uncovering what exists and lies hidden, with the same approach as those who have displayed stones found in the wild, or revealed, through cross-cutting, the secret landscapes of paesina stone.
How old is a stone and how can we classify it as either ancient or modern? Pratesi invents stones in the here and now, abstracting them from the realm of nature and transfiguring them into art. He creates forms that exist, but which had previously remained hidden. His oeuvre consists of a process of revelation, an unveiling. What we see is something different than what he had gathered. So he is a new type of artist, not a collector or researcher, but a creator of new forms. He has patiently gathered stones and found their soul.


Vittorio Sgarbi
translation by Laurel Saint Pierre, Antony Shugaar
Vittorio Sgarbi, born in Ferrara in 1952, is a noted art critic, art historian, essayist, politician, television personality, and op-ed writer who has contributed to FMR since 1982. He is currently Italy’s deputy culture minister. A collector of art and antique books, he has assembled an eclectic collection with his sister Elisabetta, now held by a foundation she created, the Fondazione Cavallini-Sgarbi.
One summer several years ago, it so happened that Giovanni Pratesi, who was born in the upper Valdarno town of Figline and had deep roots in those lands, was out walking along the riverbed of the Arno, which had shrunk in the heat to little more than a rivulet. He glanced down at the countless round stones that covered it, all uniformly shaped and sheathed in a faint film of slime that made them appear identical. The few stones wetted by the stream, though, displayed a lighter grain, with veins that connected like a subtle, labyrinthine mesh. On his next walk, he brought a hammer and used it to delve beneath the stones’ surface, thus bringing to light the spectrum of colors they concealed. A new passion was welling up in his mind, nurtured by his delight at discovering that within these small stones – or fromboli as they were known in the sixteenth century – a boundless universe of colors and images lay hidden. As his experience with this world grew, he realized that over the millennia the river’s water had tumbled these stones as far as sixty miles, or even further, from their place of origin. They were jaspers whose unassuming appearance hid, as if under some penitential garment, the bright colors within, visible only when the surface had been chipped away and the stone opened to reveal its contents, like the flesh of some wondrous fruit.
The hammer became Pratesi’s indispensable tool for discovering the inner structure of the stones. Sometimes, though, the force of the blows would shatter them, fragile as they were from the brutal chill of so many winters. Meanwhile, a storage room was filling up with lovingly assembled sacks full of samples: Pratesi is, above all, a collector. But every collection needs a structure and a form to highlight its beauty and justify the underlying passion. Pratesi realized that he needed to slice open his Arno riverstones and polish them. The most promising cut stones and those worthy of being polished came to number in the thousands, with a boundless array of colors and structural marks, until it seemed necessary to set a criterion: Pratesi decided to restrict his collection to stones from the Arno in Figline and its nearest tributaries. When you compare stones, it becomes clear that, just as in a seventeenth-century Dutch painting, it is possible to create tonal gradations and effects with the variants of one color that rival those of the most variegated palette.


A Brief History of Lithic Pareidolia

By chance, Pratesi visited the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles in 2007, just when they were presenting an exhibition of drawings by Federico Zuccari illustrating the life of his brother Taddeo. He was struck by one depicting a young Taddeo gathering riverstones from the bed of a small stream in a sack. Overcome with exhaustion, Taddeo dropped off into a slumber filled with images of magnificent architecture and when he finally awoke, decided to carry the stones to his father’s house. This series of events is narrated by Federico Zuccari himself: Exhausted by walking and suffering from fever, he stopped to rest beside a river and, while waiting to be ferried across, he fell asleep. When he awoke he fancied, in the confusion of mind caused by illness, that the stones on the river bank were painted with figures like the facades and works of Polidoro which he had admired so much in Rome. This delusion was so powerful, that he really believed these to be what they seemed; he picked up the stones that seemed to him the best and most beautiful, and with them filled the sack in which he was carrying his few necessities and his drawings…With such a load [Taddeo] returned to Sant’Angelo, recommending the stones to his mother more than himself; not until he was healed did he realize his mistake. Federico interpreted his brother’s visions as feverish hallucinations, when in fact all that was needed to appreciate the structure of the stones was a healthy dose of imagination. Federico wasn’t blazing new trails, and in his account of images appearing on the stones, which seemed to be “painted with figures,” he was employing a concept already well known to his ancient forebears, one that continued through the artistic literature of the Renaissance: it was a recurring theme that proved immensely popular. Leon Battista Alberti, for instance, took from Pliny the Elder the story of Pyrrhus’s gem showing Apollo and the nine Muses: Indeed it is evident that Nature herself delights in painting, for we observe she often fashions in marble hippocentaurs and the bearded faces of kings. It is also said that in a gem owned by Pyrrhus the nine Muses were clearly depicted by Nature, complete with their insignia.

Leonardo even goes so far as to suggest that:
By looking attentively at old and smeared walls, or stones and veined marble of various colors, you may fancy that you see in them several compositions, landscapes, battles, figures in quick motion, strange countenances, and dresses, with an infinity of other objects. By these confused lines the inventive genius is excited to new exertions.
Once again, it is Leonardo who tells of one of Botticelli’s experiments: By throwing a sponge impregnated with various colors against a wall, it leaves some spots upon it, which may appear like a landscape. It is true also, that a variety of compositions may be seen in such spots, according to the disposition of mind with which they are considered; such as heads of men, various animals, battles, rocky scenes, seas, clouds, woods, and the like.
Erasmus of Rotterdam tells the tale in one of his Colloquies of two pilgrims on their way home from Santiago de Compostela who discuss as they walk the wonders they had seen in the sanctuary, including a renowned jewel known as the “gem of the buffoon.” It had been given that odd name because in it “could be seen the semblance of a ridiculous individual, so perfectly limned that no artist could have hoped to equal it.” One of the pilgrims wonders whether that image was merely the product of overactive imaginations, “much as when we cut the root of a fern and find ourselves imagining it as an eagle. After all, what things do children fail to see in clouds? Fire-breathing dragons, flaming mountains, armies clashing.” His travel companion, still rapt with amazement at the rarity just admired, replies, “Do you not see how lavishly crafty nature plays at expressing colors and shapes in all things?”
In the fossil remains contained in the type of marble called “lumachella,” which form curious arabesques, the great Bolognese naturalist Ulisse Aldrovandi saw an enigmatic human face and crowns. Likewise, in the structure of the stone specimens in the Pratesi collection the observer can puzzle out a vast variety of images: butterflies, fish, dragonflies, and countless other things, according to each visitor’s own inclinations and visual imagination.


Jerusalem on the Arno

In studying the stones of these lands for their beauty, Pratesi soon realized that he was ideally repeating the actions of the grand dukes, retracing the footsteps of the Medici. In the Apocalypse of St. John the Apostle, heavenly Jerusalem is depicted as a gleaming city, built of precious stones. Thus, for Christian architects, churches and chapels were meant to serve as a scale model of the New Jerusalem. In the chivalric romances of the Middle Ages, and likewise in the Hypnerotomachia Poliphili, we read about fabulous works of architecture all made of precious stones. That fairytale comes true in the Chapel of the Princes, the Medici tomb in the basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence, which was conceived as a gigantic geode. The exterior of the building is made of pietra forte, the brownish, unassuming Tuscan sandstone, slightly enlivened in this case by white marble framework, but once inside, you are launched into a dimension of the supernatural. The visitor is overwhelmed by the magnificence and majesty of walls composed wholly of colorful semiprecious stones.

The chapel was enormously expensive, both because of the time it took to finish it and the sheer difficulty of procuring such a vast amount and variety of semiprecious stones: Ferdinand I undertook it as a global project, an act of imperial ambition that encompassed all of the known world. In fact, the stones were brought to Florence not only from all over Tuscany and Corsica, but from India and the Americas. In the Leghorn penal colony known as the Bagno dei Turchi, semiprecious stones were sawn into thin slabs, and then conveyed to the workshops of the Uffizi Galleries, ready to be finished by stonecutters. Sawing the stones was hard labor, fraught with grim hazards. The stone dust worked its way into the prisoners’ lungs, cutting short their already miserable lives amidst the hardships of confinement. Today, in contrast, electric saws made of tempered steel, their blades studded with industrial diamonds, have more or less eliminated what was once a serious problem. We therefore now see counters in kitchens, bathrooms, and cafés, lobby floors, and the walls of shops and boutiques that incorporate granite from Finland, India, and Labrador, or Portuguese marble, fine stones that would have astonished and captivated not only the Medici, but even the emperors of ancient Rome. Stones, in other words, that, until recently, would have entailed nearly inconceivable technical challenges to shape, finish, and install. Nowadays, tourists visit San Lorenzo primarily to see Michelangelo’s Sagrestia Nuova, with no more than a passing glance at the Chapel of the Princes, considered either a mere curiosity or an ostentatiously lavish example of aristocratic spending. For the Medici, their chapel’s chief attraction consisted largely of the splendor of the semiprecious stones whose intense colors were exalted by gleaming surfaces – indeed those stones were the main focus of work in their manufactories. But as the sixteenth century gave way to the seventeenth, they also learned to prize a much more unassuming variety of stone with rather uniquely whimsical properties: pietra paesina.

In this humble, distinctly Tuscan stone, iron and manganese deposits within the limestone and clay create images of an unsettling realism that have led to a proliferation of visual associations. The structure of the stone often seems to repeat, on a small scale, the great geological catastrophes of the Earth, from earthquakes to tempests to apocalyptic destruction, as well as the pointy roofs and soaring steeples of city skylines or ports crowded with ships whose sails have been torn to shreds by raging winds. This exquisitely Tuscan lithic phenomenon is capable of evoking far-flung and deeply exotic landscapes: the modern-day observer can summon up the New York skyline, but also a Chinese metropolis, craggy valleys, and caves.
Painters used slabs of paesina stone as backgrounds upon which to paint stark and dramatic biblical stories, such as Sodom and Gomorrah, or Samson knocking down the Temple of the Philistines; or else as settings for daring Thebaids, with anchorites sheltering amidst menacing mountains. The stone’s lines guided the artists’ imagination as they inserted figures of hermits into an imagined tumult of nature. Above and beyond stones with chipped, harsh, irregular shapes, or edges as sharp as a knife, there is another limestone, the so-called calcare rigato, whose sinuously curving lines can be interpreted as gently rolling waves on an untroubled sea, and which was often used by artists to portray harbors and ports. Another case of mimicry is that of the verde d’Arno or Arno green, which was used on fine stone tabletops to depict the foliage of trees and plants. These were the few pietre tenere or soft stones accepted in the workshops of the Medici court.
Unsurprisingly, it was a Florentine monk of Santa Maria Novella, Agostino del Riccio, who wrote a treatise around the turn of the seventeenth century entitled Istoria delle pietre (The History of Stones.) Del Riccio was no man of letters, and was both rather naïve and overly verbose. Nonetheless, he managed to beautifully capture the spirit of the times and the passion of the Florentines – and the Medici – for these materials. He was familiar with the craftsmen and artists working in the sector – among them both Buontalenti and Jacopo Ligozzi – and was a regular presence in the court ateliers where the stonecutters produced their creations, including vases made of rock crystal, jasper, and lapis lazuli. He knew where to find semiprecious stone in Tuscany, had a perfect command of the marblecutter’s culture, and had mastered the poetic nomenclature of these materials.

The Florentine craft of cutting and composing with semiprecious stones spread to Naples, Kassel, and Madrid, but endured for centuries in its place of origin, flourishing again under the House of Lorraine and throughout the nineteenth century. The voracious tourist market has kept this refined technique alive, although it remains tied to old motifs such as flowers, fruit, animals, and geometric patterns.
Instead of seeking out new sources of inspiration, stonecutters stuck to those favored subjects, although they also came to imitate the landscapes of the Macchiaioli. Paradoxically enough, the loose brushstrokes of those artists were faithfully reproduced in harsh, unyielding stone. Though still stunning in terms of the technical skills required, stonecutting has seemed to become fossilized in formulaic sterility, dully retrograde, and pointlessly repetitive.


A Landscape of the Soul

Pratesi, however, seemed to blaze a new figurative path, prying open the stones of the Arno like the pages of an illustrated book to discover a wealth of unexpected imagery within. So-called frutticolosa breccia stone can hold its own in the face of the most renowned and beautiful Egyptian breccias, once beloved of Roman emperors. The Arno holds many surprises in store for us: from Max Ernst frottages, to Jackson Pollock drippings, to the texturologies of Jean Dubuffet. There are stones that, once cut, resemble moss or lichen or a carefully prepared anatomical slide of tissues from human organs, in a mimesis so successful that it’s impossible to look upon them without a shiver of surprise or reverent repulsion. Inorganic matter uses the same language as living tissue. Indeed, hundreds of these expressions of Mother Nature line the light-gray, neoclassically inflected cabinets of the Pratesi Foundation.
When you plant flowers in a flowerbed, even clashing color combinations miraculously manage to harmonize, whereas in a manmade textile they’d prove intolerable to the eye. Stones, even those with little in common, follow the same principles as flowers. To emphasize the beauty of some of the stones in his collection, Pratesi backs them with another type of stone that is more uniform in terms of grain and color, so that the slice of stone at the center magically becomes more precious, with more decorative intensity, its inherent structural designs emerging with newfound impact.
In the Foundation’s venue, these rectangular backings are framed and lined up like friezes on the cabinets. We should consider them as an incisive step toward the renewal of the stonecutter’s art.

Pratesi’s stones open our eyes to a great many previously unseen aspects of the natural world that surrounds us. A visit to this museum evokes the poetry of a Wunderkammer and awakens a sense of wonder at the arcane delights of creation. But the collection also proudly affirms its own roots, in a geographic area redolent with history, values, and natural beauty. It is the most complete collection of Tuscan stones from a very narrow area. Even a contemporary scholar thoroughly familiar with the nine thousand samples assembled by Giovanni Targioni Tozzetti (1712-1783) will stumble upon some surprising discoveries in Pratesi’s collection. Such is Pratesi’s museum: both a landscape of the soul and a manifesto of the personality of its founder. A visit to this collection reveals not merely a fanfare of vivid colors emanating from the interior of the stones on display, but also the poetic aspect of certain subtle nuances that may at first go unnoticed. It serves as a guide to the wonders of nature in all its various aspects.


Detlef Heikamp
translation by Laurel Saint Pierre, Antony Shugaar
Detlef Heikamp (born in Bremen in 1927) is an art historian and great connoisseur of Medici collections who has taught in Florence, Nuremberg, Cambridge, Mass., Würzburg, and Berlin. He is a member emeritus of the Accademia delle Arti del Disegno in Florence; he was also an associate scholar at the Kunsthistorisches Institut in the same city. He is a founding member of the “Amici degli Uffizi.” He was a J. Paul Getty Museum Scholar in the summer of 2007. Heikamp received the “Professor Luigi Tartufari” International Prize from the Accademia dei Lincei in Rome in 2013 and the Fiorino d’Oro from the city of Florence in 2017. 
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